Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

All ashore

For the first time in its 156-year history, the America’s Cup is taking place in Europe. Stephanie Rafanelli looks at how Valencia has transformed its port to bring this great competition to the people

There are two cups in the city of Valencia that have mesmerised men across time. One, the Holy Chalice of Valencia, housed in the city’s cathedral, is said to be that used at the Last Supper and still draws religious devotees to the city. The other, the America’s Cup – the world’s oldest sports trophy and the Holy Grail of yachting – will be contested in Europe for the first time in its 156-year history at the city’s purpose-built arena.

The magnetic draw of the 32nd America’s Cup, which begins this month and climaxes in June, has already radically transformed Spain’s third city, formerly in the shadow of its rival and nemesis Barcelona. Valencia – hitherto famous for oranges, paella and the pyromaniac festival of Fallas – has become the epicentre of European yachting in just two years and the hippest destination in the Med. With luxury super-brands Louis Vuitton, BMW and Prada all sponsoring the event or individual teams, the Costa Azahar has replaced the Côte D’Azur as the name on the lips of the European jet set.

Yet, ask the average Valenciano about the America’s Cup and he’ll shrug his shoulders in that nonchalant Spanish way. While the centre of the city is only 4km from the coast, its inhabitants are remarkably unseaworthy.

In Borgian times, the port was one of the most thriving and influential in the Mediterranean, but since then it has slipped into decline, along with its seafaring tradition. Sailing became an elitist sport, the preserve of the king, who moors his yacht at the Real Club Nautico de Valencia.

When Team Alinghi from landlocked Switzerland won the 2003 America’s Cup in Auckland, New Zealand, Ernesto Bertarelli of biotech company Alinghi began the search for a coastal city in Europe to host the event. Valencia’s mayoress, Rita Barbara Nolla, saw the potential to redevelop the port area – doing the same for Valencia as the 1992 Olympics did for Barcelona
– and bring its people back to the sea.

The construction of the world-class yachting facility, Port America’s Cup, in just three years should eradicate forever the stereotype of the Spanish mañana mentality. The transformation of the commercial port cost €300m and has happened at lightning speed. Facilities include 12 bases, a 100-metre canal linking the port to the sea, a new 700-berth public marina, a 100,000m2 America’s Cup park and a super-yacht dock. The result is the largest marina in Europe, with a breathtaking clash-of-centuries design. The iconoclastic industrial cranes tower over David Chipperfield’s Veles e Vents spectator building, Renzo Piano’s Prada team base and the renovated Port Authority building, all reflected in the cobalt blue water.

The creation of this titanic arena marks the radical transformation of the America’s Cup into a spectator event for the people, with space for more than 20,000 fans in front-row seats along the canal and terraces of the marina. It’s not only the arena that has been relaunched for the 21st century, either. The event itself now sees 13 acts, or pre-races, for the 11 challengers prior to the Louis Vuitton Cup, the winner of which goes head-to-head with Team Alinghi for a chance to win the America’s Cup. For the first time, the 12 competing teams’ bases will be positioned side-by-side along the marina’s inner harbour, and can be watched by the public 24 hours a day, a bit like a giant yachting version of Big Brother.

You don’t have to be a multibillionaire or a professional yachtie to be part of the 2007 America’s Cup. The best way to witness the action is from the 700-berth marina facility, where you can combine a sailing holiday and inhabit the arena of a world-class sporting event. The marina caters for eight to 29-metre yachts, and has a range of packages which, for four to six people, can work out cheaper than staying in a hotel. For those without their own personal gin palace in the Med, yachts can be chartered through the marina or externally through a local charter, such as Mundo Marino, although hiring a skipper costs an extra €120 a day.

There’s no way to be closer to the action without actually sailing the America’s Cup race. You’ll live, sleep and breathe the glamour and electric atmosphere of the event. You can compare tans with the superyacht crowd berthed at the T-dock and chink champagne flutes with the Spanish jet set who have sailed in from Palma and Ibiza. The marina is situated between the team bases and the diamond-shaped course. So, from the deck of your yacht you can wave to the teams as they sail past, café con leche in hand, and then follow them out for a day on the water.

The start is the most dynamic part of any America’s Cup race as the boats face-off for the best position in the start box, guided by their tacticians, who predict wind shifts by watching for invisible signs and shadows on the water. While spectator boats are kept at a 200-metre distance, the race boats are free to sail into the spectator area and ‘hi-five’ their fans, leaving them in a cloud of sea spray before turning back to the racecourse. After the start, follow the teams up the windward leg or relax at the finish with a pair of binoculars and a bottle of cava. Then just wait for your favourites to cross the line, perhaps one step closer to holding the America’s Cup.

Additional info

Price Entrance to Port America’s Cup is free at all times

Important race dates 4–7 April Louis Vuitton Act 13 Fleet Race 16 April – 12 June Louis Vuitton Cup 23 June – 7 July America’s Cup Match For more details, see www.americascup.com

Berths and boat trips Port America’s Cup is offering a number of packages for berths at the marina. For a 12m yacht, a nine-day package during the first round robin of the Louis Vuitton Cup (13–22 April) costs about €1,100, while a 13-day package during the Louis Vuitton Cup Finals (31 May – 13 June) costs €2,176. Tel. +34 963 542160, www.portamericascup.com

The marina also offers spectator boat trips. A four-hour trip (one race) starts at €45 for Act 13, going up to €80 for the America’s Cup match race.

Sailing courses Real Club Nautico de Valencia runs light sailing and sailing cruising courses for beginners and intermediates. Tel. +34 963 414110, www.rcnauticovalencia.com

Weekend sailing courses at Port America’s Cup (www.portamericascup.com) for children and beginners cost €40.

Yacht charter Mundo Marino (mundomarino.es) yacht charter starts at €1,200 to €2,325 for a Bavaria 32 for six to eight people for a week. A skipper costs €120 a day.

Place to stay Prices at Hotel Balneario Las Arenas start at €295 for a double room. See www.hotel-lasarenas.com

Need to know

The ‘not-so’ yachties guide to Valencia

The teams USA’s BMW Oracle Racing, Italy’s Luna Rossa and Emirates Team New Zealand are the favourites to go through to the semi-final of the Louis Vuitton Cup, with the fourth place hotly contested. Desafío Español, the French Aveva Challenge and Italy’s Mascalzone Latino-Capitalia Team are all expected to be contenders.

Best place to watch on land Watch the races from the palm-fringed seafront promenade of Malvarrosa beach. The recently renovated Hotel Balneario Las Arenas (Calle Eugenia Viñes 22-24, tel. +34 963 120600, www.hotel-lasarenas.com) is one of two beachfront hotels. Watch the races from the balcony of your room, next to the 1930s-style fountain or just lie in the original swimming pool and watch the coloured sails go by.

Where to hang out The Omega Bar at Hotel Neptuno (Paseo Neptuno 2) with its glass lift and pop art-filled lobby, is where the well-heeled Cup coolsters hang out. Sip mojitos and aqua de Valencia to funky Latin vibes on the beachfront terrace.

Best paella Founded in 1898, the warehouse-sized La Pepica (Paseo Neptuno 2-8), with its open kitchen, giant pans and traditional tiles, is the most famous place for paella in town – patrons have included Ernest Hemingway and the Spanish royal family. Try arroz negre (rice with squid ink) and broaden your paella horizons.

Best salsa If you want to bailar in Valencia, try the latino and salsa beats of Johnny Maracas (Calle Caballeros
39). For a more upmarket experience, go to La Indiana (Calle San Vicente Mártir 95) with its funk, Latino and house floors. The shark tanks will make you feel at home.

Best thing to do on your day off If you’re suffering from America’s Cup fatigue, it’s easy to escape the marina. Wander through Valencia’s old town, the largest in Europe. Explore myriad churches, the Cathedral’s Gothic, Roman and Baroque gates and the Lonja de la Seda, the old silk exchange on Plaza del Mercado. And just 20 minutes from the city cenre you can admire the futuristic architecture at the City of Arts and Sciences complex -home to a science museum, aquarium, planetarium and theatre.

Tous au large

L’America’s Cup, le Saint Graal de la Voile, aura lieu pour la première fois de son histoire en Europe, dans la ville de Valencia où un plan d’eau approprié a spécialement été construit pour l’occasion. L’accueil de cet événement a transformé la troisième ville d’Espagne, réputée pour ses oranges et sa paëlla, en l’une des destinations les plus trendys de la Méditerranée.

Les Valenciens tournent en quelque sorte le dos à la mer. Ces dernières années, la population a évité les abords du port, vu son haut taux de criminalité lié au trafic de drogue et à la prostitution. Toutefois lorsque les consultations furent organisées en vue de désigner une ville pour accueillir le trophée légendaire, la mairesse, Rita Barbara, vit une opportunité de re-développer le quartier portuaire et de donner un nouveau prestige à Valencia tout comme les Jeux Olympiques l’avaient fait pour Barcelone. En même temps, l’America’s Cup ramène les populations vers leur littoral.

La ville a construit un plan d’eau d’un million de m2 en seulement trois ans, une infrastructure de standard international pour la navigation. Coût de l’opération: €300 millions. Cela comprend un canal de 100 mètres reliant le port à la mer, une marina avec de la place pour 700 bateaux, un parc America’s Cup de 100 000m2 et un dock pour de super yachts. Le résultat est phénoménal : Valencia offre la plus grande marina d’Europe, d’un design époustouflant qui se juxtapose de manière passionnante avec d’histoire séculaire.

Le long du canal et des terrasses a également été aménagé un espace pour installer en première position plus de 20 000 fans. Et cette année, pas besoin d’être multi- millionnaire ou professionnel du monde de la voile pour participer à la compétition de l’America’s Cup 2007. Un des meilleurs plans pour aller au cœur de l’action, est d’affréter un yacht depuis la marina (ce qui peut s’avérer moins cher qu’un hôtel). Profitez-en aussi pour comparer votre bronzage et trinquer au champagne avec la jetset espagnole.

Assistez au départ. Ensuite détendezvous dans l’attente de l’arrivée, avec sous la main une paire de jumelles, une paella et une bouteille de cava local, pour soutenir votre équipe.

Iedereen aan wal

Dit jaar vindt de America’s Cup, de moeder aller zeilwedstrijden, voor het eerst plaats in Valencia, dat voor de gelegenheid een nieuw complex bouwde. Zo wordt de derde stad van Spanje, beroemd om zijn sinaasappelen en paella, de meest hippe bestemming in de Middellandse Zee.

Valencianen zijn niet meteen zeebonken, want criminaliteit, drugs en prostitutie teisteren al jaren het commerciële havengebied. Maar toen de organisatoren van de America’s Cup een Europese gastlocatie zochten, zag burgemeester Rita Barbara haar kans schoon om het stadsdeel op te smukken, zoals de Olympische spelen voor Barcelona deden.

Op drie jaar tijd trok de stad een zeilhaven van 1 miljoen m² met wereldklasse op. Prijskaartje: € 300 miljoen. Het project omvat een 100 meter lang kanaal dat de haven met de zee verbindt, een jachthaven met 700 aanlegplaatsen, het 100.000 m² grote America’s Cup-park en een superjachtdok. Het resultaat mag er zijn. Voortaan heeft Valencia de grootste haven in Europa, met een adembenemend ontwerp in stijlen uit verschillende eeuwen.

Langs het kanaal en de terrassen kunnen meer dan 20.000 fans het evenement vanop de eerste rij volgen. En dit jaar hoef je geen multimiljonair of professioneel zeiler te zijn om mee te genieten. Het best kun je een jacht van de haven afhuren (wat wel eens goedkoper kan uitvallen dan een hotel), waar je een mooi kleurtje opdoet en champagne drinkt met de Spaanse jetset.

Volg de start en geniet van de finish met een verrekijker, een bord paella en een fles cava.

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