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Riding high

Text Sheridan Becker

The Belgian city of Liège plays host to world-class cyclists for the annual Liège–Bastogne–Liège race

The Tour de France might boast worldwide recognition, but the longest-established pro classic cycling race – and arguably the most difficult to win – is Belgium’s Liège–Bastogne–Liège. Often nicknamed La Doyenne (‘the oldest woman’), the 262km challenge is one of the ‘monuments’ – the five most prestigious fixtures in one-day cycle racing. “It’s got the reputation… In fact, it could be the hardest classic,” says American cyclist Lance Armstrong of the race, which was first run in 1892. “You win here, it means something.”

For more than a century, courageous, strong-willed and physically fit riders have lined up – often in cold and rainy conditions – to undertake this gruelling ride covering some of the Ardennes hills’ most punishing terrain. Last year riders averaged 42.5km/h in the first hour, and the winner, Danilo Di Luca of Italy, finished in 6 hours, 37 minutes and 24 seconds.

It’s the riders who really make this race, which tends to be a nail-bitingly close-run affair. Indeed, Belgium is the home turf of one of the most successful cyclists of all time, Eddy Merckx. Now retired, Merckx set several world records during his career, some of which remain unbroken to this day. His successes include an unsurpassed five Liège– Bastogne–Liège wins.

Among the top-rated riders taking part in last year’s event were Paolo Bettini of Italy, Alejandro Valverde of Spain, and Fränk Schleck of Luxembourg, as well as an array of young Belgian riders, most notably the popular ‘Tornado’ Tom Boonen. No doubt an equally illustrious lineup will be ‘dancing on the pedals’ at this year’s much-anticipated event, which is due to take place in April.

Those content to leave the pedalling to the professionals will find plenty to keep them entertained in Liège while the race takes its course. Attractions include an aquarium, a historical city centre, several museums, and four cinemas. The city also has plenty of nightlife, especially in the bustling square known as Le Carré, and the Place du Marché.

Jazz à Liège (tel. +32 4 221 1011, jazzaliege.be), the city’s international jazz festival, is a yearly highlight on the European concert circuit. More than 20 acts are expected at this year’s twoday festival, taking place on 6-7 June at the Palais des Congrès (2 Esplanade de l’Europe). This well balanced mix of American, European and home-grown talent has been running for 17 years, attracting acts including E.S.T., Dave Douglas and David Sanchez. This year’s line-up has yet to be announced.

Don’t miss…

Attractions in Liège and the surrounding area

1 Le Château des Thermes
9 Rue Hauster, Chaudfontaine, www.chateaudesthermes.be
This thermal site around 10km south of Liège was once called “the violet of spas” by Victor Hugo. It’s Belgium’s only spa with natural hot springs, which are used to fill an outdoor swimming pool that remains at 34°C all year round.

2 Crystal Factory of Val Saint Lambert
245 Rue du Val, Seraing, www.val-saint-lambert.com
Visitors can find out more about the arts of glass-blowing and crystal-engraving at the world-famous Crystal Factory of Val Saint Lambert, established in 1826. The factory supplies wares to royal families from around the world and is a producer of unique pieces and collectible trophies. Visitors are welcomed Monday to Thursday at 10.30am or 2.30pm, Friday at 10.30am, and, every second weekend of the month (except in August), every hour from 10.30am to 3.30pm. The showroom is open throughout the year from 9am to 5pm except on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. The entrance fee is €6 for adults and €3.75 for children.

3 Nun’s Restaurant and Bar
18 Impasse des Ursulines, Liège, www.nuns.be
Liège was the birthplace of Charlemagne, and folks around here know how to eat like kings. This former nunnery serves continental and Asian fusion food in the heart of the city. Reserve a courtyard table if the weather’s good.

4 Le Bruit Qui Court
142 Boulevard de la Sauvenière, Liège, www.bruitquicourt.be
This former bank is now a trendy brasserie serving French and international fusion cuisine. A live DJ plays on Saturday nights.

5 Monde Sauvage Safari Park
3 Fange de Deigné, Aywaille, www.mondesauvage.be
Looking for a wild adventure? Take an African-style safari by night, dining by campfire surrounded by birds of prey, giraffes, rhinos and zebras – all to the beat of diembe drums. Rates: €55 per person including all activities, meals and beverages.

6 Liège Congrès
2 Esplanade de l’Europe, Liège, www.liegecongres.be
Georges Simenon, writer of the famous Inspector Maigret books, was born in Liège, and you can help solve a fictional murder in his honour. Liège Congrès has created a fun mystery game leading visitors around Liège in a hunt for clues. Languages available include French, English, Dutch and German.

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